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MICROFLUIDICS IN COSMETIC RESEARCH: IMPROVED FORMULATIONS AND SMARTER TESTING

Microfluidics is revolutionizing cosmetic research by enabling precise, miniaturized experimentation and rapid prototyping of novel formulations. Elveflow’s solutions are well suited to support this shift. For example, the droplet generation systems can be used to create highly stable emulsions for advanced formulation studies. Our liquid handling platforms are also ideal for automated microextraction protocols or recirculation loops in skin-on-a-chip models, helping to replicate dynamic physiological conditions during cosmetic testing. These capabilities open new avenues for researchers aiming to improve reproducibility, reduce reagent use, and accelerate development timelines.

Microfluidics in cosmetics research

Cosmetic development faces a profound transformation, mostly driven by ethical imperatives and strict regulatory frameworks that restrict or prohibit animal testing. In 2004, the European Parliament banned the commercialization of cosmetic products tested on animals. In this evolving regulatory landscape, microfluidic technology is now seen as a game-changer. By recreating complex human models on a microscale, microfluidics is a reliable, reproducible, and ethical alternative for cosmetic products evaluation. These systems comply with international safety standards but also improve testing accuracy and consumer protection.

This review gives an overview about how microfluidics is getting involved in advanced cosmetic research, from advanced formulation methods to toxicology testing and the development of sophisticated skin-on-a-chip models. Get a snapshot of recent innovations in microfluidic applications and their role in making the industry more precise, ethical, and consumer-focused.

How Microfluidics is improving Cosmetics Industry

Microfluidics is defined as the controlled manipulation of microscale fluid volumes within microchannels. Reduced volumes also mean reduced cost, but also reproducibility and scaled testing. These benefits are significant to cosmetic applications, particularly in formulation and biological testing.

Microfluidic systems operate under laminar flow conditions, allowing for predictable mixing and efficient heat and mass transfer, ideal for sensitive cosmetic actives. A typical microfluidic setup will include:

  • Microfluidic chips: Designed on biocompatible materials like PDMS, COC or glass, these chips have specific geometries such as T-junctions or flow-focusing designs to create monodisperse droplets or tissue-like environments
  • Flow control instruments: Instruments like the OB1 pressure controller enable precise flow regulation for better reproducibility and accuracy. Flow control can also be supported by simple and complex microfluidic valves.
  • System integration: To improve the relevance of the system, sensors, actuators, and real-time imaging for enhanced data capture can be incorporated. 
  • Software automatization: Tools like ESI software are intuitive interfaces for monitoring and controlling experiments in cosmetics formulation and toxicology testing.
08_OB1_MK3+_Pressure_controller
OB1 Pressure Controller

Microfluidic Technologies for Cosmetic Formulation

A key parameter in the cosmetics industry is formulation control, to protect active molecules or achieve a specific texture. This often involves water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, which can be done using droplet-based microfluidics. This technology allows researchers to control cosmetic formulation variables and get better delivery mechanisms and more stability in cosmetic products.

Stabilizing emulsion

Microfluidic methods have addressed some of the limitations associated with conventional emulsification techniques, like broad size distributions and low yield. Monodisperse emulsions can be achieved through controlled droplet generation, crucial for visual aesthetics in cosmetic products while improving product performance [1]​.

Microextraction of actives

Another use of microfluidics is with the encapsulation and delivery of cosmetic ingredients. For example, magnetic solid phase extraction (MSPE) has shown promise in efficiently isolating active compounds, like parabens, from complex samples. In addition, microfluidics technology is implemented to perform preconcentration of target analytes and has been optimized to minimize dispersion in microchannels. The method from M. Farahmandi et al., uses magnetite nanoparticles coated with polyaniline to ensure high extraction efficiency and fast processing time [2]​.

Microfluidics in Cosmetic Research: Improved Formulations and Smarter Testing

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Microcapsules and Nanoparticles encapsulation

In most cosmetics formulations, actives need to be encapsulated to maintain their property and avoid toxicity. This is the case for chemical ultraviolet (UV) filters which are known to be irritating for the eyes. One approach is to generate microcapsule structures with various shell thickness, to enhance UV absorption efficiency while reducing direct contact with the skin [3]​. Microfluidic production of these capsules allows controlled size and membrane properties which further optimizes their use in cosmetics for effective and safe UV protection [4]​.

Also, on a smaller scale, lipid nanoparticles (LNPs)  have been used to improve the physical properties of sunscreen formulation. Indeed, those carriers widely studied in biomedical applications, show an interesting versatility in encapsulating both hydrophilic and hydrophobic bioactives. In one study from J. N. Schianti et al., a 3D microfluidic device was developed to produce the nanoprecipitation of Benzophenone-3, another UV filter. The flow rate and phase ratios are carefully controlled to produce particles with uniform size distribution, important for formulation stability and effectiveness [5]​.

microfluidics for cosmetic research

Cosmetic Testing Parallelization and Automation

Microfluidics has a great potential for parallelization, enabling high-throughput experimentation, especially for the cosmetic industry. By employing pressure-driven flow control and smart valve systems, like rotary valves for liquid handling or matrix valve arrays for drug screening, R&D teams and researchers can automate and scale complex workflows for screening and formulation development (see liquid handling pack, see drug screening case). These complex microfluidic settings are also employed to replicate physiological conditions for cell culture, with controlled and dynamic environments. It is widely used in biomedical research for in vitro testing but is slowly reaching the cosmetics industry. 

The best for your flow controlled experiment

OB1 pressure controller 1 to 4 channels pressure & vacuum

Toxicology Testing With Microfluidics and Skin-on-a-Chip 

The banning of animal testing in cosmetics, particularly across Europe, has created an urgent demand for reliable in vitro models. Microfluidic systems, especially microphysiological systems (MPSs), are addressing this need by replicating human organ functions on chips. Here are some examples of the use of microfluidics for in vitro testing: 

Multi-Organ Systems

The complexity of evolved organisms is impossible to reproduce on a 2D cell culture plate. This is why researchers are building more and more complex in vitro systems that incorporate various cell types, controlled microenvironments and inter-cell communication for more relevant results. As an example, innovative MPS platforms now integrate skin, liver, and intestinal tissue models within a single device. Flow control in microfluidics becomes essential to offer a more realistic evaluation of systemic toxicity and carcinogenicity.

The interconnected nature of these organ models significantly improves physiological relevance and helps study endocrine disruption and systemic responses, before admitting them on the market. In the study of N. Indolfo et al. [6], the development of 3D skin, intestinal barrier and liver equivalents on a single microfluidic chip was specifically designed for the cosmetics industry as it evaluates the systemic toxicity and carcinogenicity of local application. The use of MPS in the context of safety assessment of cosmetics isn’t yet standardized and systematic but has a bright future using human derived-cells rather than less relevant, and now forbidden, animal models.

Advanced Ocular Irritation Tests

The push for cruelty-free labels in cosmetics has been crucial in ending the use of animals for irritation testing. This movement has really driven innovation, and microfluidics has played a big role in optimizing in vitro irritation tests. In the study by T. Tian et al [7]., they developed a microfluidic device that mimics the hen’s egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) assay for eye irritation. They used human umbilical vein endothelial cells, exposed them to test substances, and then assessed toxicity by measuring cell death rates. This method turned out to be both faster and more sensitive than traditional approaches. This study shows that microfluidic systems can truly streamline testing while still being reliable and sensitive.

Machine Learning and Co-Culture Arrays

The cosmetics industry is also benefiting from advancements in machine learning for evaluating its products, with the goal of gradually reducing the reliance on testing with living cells. The integration of machine learning algorithms with multicellular co-culture arrays (MCA) is particularly promising for improving the predictive capability of microfluidic platforms. By simulating complex interactions between different cell types, such as hepatocytes, keratinocytes, and immune cells, researchers can more accurately assess the risks of skin sensitization related to drug metabolites [6]​​. These methods simplify the study of complex biological interactions into more manageable assays, thus offering a high-throughput screening solution applicable in both cosmetics and pharmacology.

Skin-on-a-Chip: A New Standard for Skin Testing

With the increasing ban on animal testing for cosmetics, as mandated by legislation such as the European Union’s regulations, the beauty and personal care industries are seeking alternative methodologies that replicate the complex in vivo environment of human skin. 

The skin is the biggest organ in the human body, a multi-layered organ made up of the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, each with its own role. The outermost layer, the epidermis, is mainly made up of keratinocytes which is the primary barrier against water loss, pathogens and environmental aggressors. This layer also has melanocytes (pigmentation), Langerhans cells (immune surveillance) and Merkel cells (sensory function). Beneath it, the dermis provides structural support with fibroblasts, collagen, elastin fibers, blood vessels and nerves, for elasticity, repair and nutrient supply. Finally, the deepest layer, the hypodermis, is made up mostly of fat that insulates and cushions the body. Together these layers form a barrier system that maintains hydration, protects against mechanical and microbial threats and supports homeostasis.

Skin composition
Skin composition, adapted from Nianfang Hu et. al 2023. [8]

In order to get closer to physiological functions of the skin, microfluidic devices are a key partner in the creation of human skin models offering a more ethical and efficient platform for evaluating the safety and efficacy of cosmetic products [6]​ [8]​ [9]​.

Future Trends: Personalized and Ethical Cosmetics

Recreating Vascularized, Immunocompetent Skin

Recent advancements in microfluidic technology have led to the development of sophisticated skin-on-a-chip models that closely replicate the structure and function of human skin. These models integrate essential cell types—keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and immune cells—creating a co-culture environment that mimics the skin’s natural microenvironment.

Skin on a chip cosmetics
A skin model on a chip (keratinocyte – green, fibroblast – blue and endothelial cell – red) composed of three layers representing the composition of the epidermis, dermis and endothelium. Adapted from Nianfang Hu et. al 2023. [8]

As highlighted in the review by Krishan Mistry and Michael H. Alexander, thin microfluidic skin models now increasingly incorporate vascular and immune components, allowing researchers to study inflammation, transdermal absorption, and barrier functions with higher physiological relevance. The integration of microchannels and flow control enables the precise modulation of shear stress and biochemical gradients, critical for understanding how skin responds to external stimuli. Continuous perfusion, which supports long-term viability and dynamic stimulation, can be achieved using systems like the Elveflow Perfusion Pack, offering controlled flow and nutrient delivery to enhance the reliability and reproducibility of cosmetic toxicology studies.

3D Bioprinting Synergy for Skin-on-chip

In many of these studies, researchers combine 3D bioprinting with microfluidic technologies to build complex, multilayered skin models that better reflect the architecture and function of real human skin. Bioprinting is a technique that uses bio-inks, made from living cells and biomaterials, to fabricate tissue-like structures with high precision. When integrated into microfluidic chips, these printed skin constructs can include distinct layers of the epidermis, dermis, and even vascular components. This layered setup makes it possible to simulate conditions like skin inflammation or disease, and to assess how cosmetic ingredients interact with the skin in realistic settings. These models are especially useful for evaluating cytokine release, active ingredient permeability, and other key markers of irritation or sensitization. Once again, offering a more predictive, ethical alternative to animal testing [9]​.

Skin on a chip bioprinting cosmetics

Conclusion: Microfluidics for Cosmetics Industry 

Microfluidics is no longer a niche technology but a new ally of modern cosmetic research. Its ability to reproduce the physiological behavior of human tissues, facilitate high-throughput testing, and refine formulation methods, helps setting new standards for both safety and innovation.

From the assistance in the formulation of cosmetic products to the replacement of animal testing with sophisticated in vitro models, microfluidic platforms can play a part in how cosmetic products are developed and validated. Challenges remain in scaling these technologies for full industrial integration, but the trajectory is clear: microfluidics will play a central role in the development of safer, more effective, and ethically produced cosmetics.

As this field continues to grow, we would certainly see the emergence of personalized cosmetology, tailored skincare solutions based on individual needs, much like personalized medicine, where microfluidics is already firmly established. As the field matures, we are entering an era where innovation and ethics converge, powered by microfluidic technology.

Interested in incorporating microfluidics to elevate your research? Get in touch with our expert to define the perfect setup for your needs!

Written and reviewed by Louise Fournier, PhD in Chemistry and Biology Interface, For more content about microfluidics, you can have a look here.

References

[1] D. Park, H. Kim, and J. W. Kim, “Microfluidic production of monodisperse emulsions for cosmetics,” Biomicrofluidics, vol. 15, p. 051302, Sep. 2021, doi: 10.1063/5.0057733.

[2] M. Farahmandi, Y. Yamini, M. Baharfar, and M. Karami, “Dispersive magnetic solid phase microextraction on microfluidic systems for extraction and determination of parabens,” Analytica Chimica Acta, vol. 1188, p. 339183, Dec. 2021, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2021.339183.

[3] J. Du, P. Canamas, P. Guichardon, N. Ibaseta, B. Montagnier, and J.-C. Hubaud, “Adaptability of polyurea microcapsules loaded with octyl salicylate for sunscreen application: Influence of shell thickness of microfluidic-calibrated capsules on UV absorption efficiency,” 4open, vol. 6, p. 5, May 2023, doi: 10.1051/fopen/2023004.

[4] W. M. Hamonangan, S. Lee, Y. H. Choi, W. Li, M. Tai, and S.-H. Kim, “Osmosis-mediated microfluidic production of submillimeter-sized capsules with an ultrathin shell for cosmetic applications,” ACS Applied Materials & Interfaces, Apr. 2022, doi: 10.1021/acsami.2c01319.

[5] J. N. Schianti, N. P. N. Cerize, A. M. Oliveira, S. Derenzo, and M. R. Góngora-Rubio, “3-d LTCC microfluidic device as a tool for studying nanoprecipitation,” Journal of Physics: Conference Series, vol. 421, p. 012012, Mar. 2013, doi: 10.1088/1742-6596/421/1/012012

[6] N. Indolfo et al., “Combining a microphysiological system of three organ equivalents and transcriptomics to assess toxicological endpoints for cosmetics ingredients.” Lab on a Chip, Nov. 2023, doi: 10.1039/d3lc00546a.

[7] T. Tian, S. Cho, and S. W. Rhee, “Microfluidic devices for eye irritation tests of cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients,” BioChip Journal, vol. 13, pp. 142–150, Apr. 2019, doi: 10.1007/s13206-018-3204-1

[8] N. Hu et al., “Advancements in microfluidics for skin cosmetics screening,” The Analyst, Mar. 2023, doi: 10.1039/d2an01716d.

[9] K. Mistry and M. H. Alexander, “Skin-on-a-chip microfluidic devices: Production, verification, and uses in cosmetic toxicology,” Springer Nature Singapore, 2023, pp. 47–82. doi: 10.1007/978-981-99-2804-0_4.

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